If you need a break from the bustle of Istanbul and you are craving beaches, a river and green countryside, Şile and Ağva are the answer. These two small towns on the Black Sea coast are a little over an hour from central Istanbul, and they feel a world away from the traffic and crowds of the city.
Şile: lighthouse, beaches and local cloth
Şile is a fishing town with a charm all of its own. These are its highlights:
- Şile Lighthouse: built by French engineers in 1859, this 19-metre octagonal tower stands on the clifftop above the harbour. The views over the Black Sea from its foot are spectacular.
- Şile beach: a long stretch of golden sand, much cleaner and quieter than the beaches on Istanbul’s Sea of Marmara shore. In summer the water is pleasantly warm (22–24°C).
- Şile cloth (Şile bezi): the town’s signature craft. This light, airy cotton fabric with traditional embroidery is perfect for hot weather, and you will find shops selling it in the town centre.
- Şile Castle: the ruins of a Genoese fortress on a small rocky islet just off the harbour. It is best admired from the shore, and with the open sea behind it, it makes a dramatic photo.
Ağva: the village between two rivers
Ağva lies about 40 km east of Şile by road, where two rivers, the Göksu and the Yeşilçay, meet the Black Sea. It is the quietest and most romantic spot on this stretch of coast.
- A boat trip on the Göksu: drift along the river between wooded banks on both sides. It is a relaxing experience, and a rare one so close to a megacity.
- Kilimli beach: a wilder beach framed by greenery and far less crowded than Şile. Ideal if you are looking for unspoilt nature.
- A fresh trout dinner: Ağva’s riverside restaurants serve fresh river trout straight from the grill, with a salad of local garden produce.
- Kayaking and canoeing: in summer you can hire a kayak and paddle along the river under the trees. A perfect activity for families.
Getting there from Istanbul
From Istanbul’s Asian side (Üsküdar or Kadıköy), Şile is about 70 km away (1–1.5 hours by car), and there are buses from Üsküdar. Ağva is roughly 40 km further east along the coast.
The best option is to go by car or with private transport, so you are free to move between the two towns at your own pace. The road runs through the lovely forests of Istanbul’s rural hinterland.
Tips
- Ideal for a weekend or a long day out in spring and summer (May–September).
- On weekdays there are far fewer people and prices are lower.
- Pack a swimsuit even in spring: the sun can be warm enough for a morning on the beach.
- The Black Sea has strong currents: swim only at beaches with lifeguards and follow the flags.
- Combine Şile in the morning (lighthouse and beach) with Ağva in the afternoon (river and dinner).