Just 20 km from the centre of Istanbul lies a great sweep of woodland: Belgrad Forest (Belgrad Ormanı). With some 5,500 hectares of oak, beech, chestnut and pine, it is the green lung of this sprawling city and a perfect escape when you want to switch off without travelling far.
What to do in Belgrad Forest
1. Walking trails
The forest has several waymarked routes of varying difficulty:
- Along the aqueducts (about 6 km, easy): walk past old Ottoman and Byzantine aqueducts that once carried water to the city. The most impressive is the Aqueduct of Mahmud I (18th century), wrapped in greenery.
- Neşet Suyu loop (about 6.5 km, easy): a circular route starting at Neşet Suyu, ideal for families, with natural springs and places to rest along the way.
- Around the reservoirs (about 8 km, moderate): a route past the historic reservoirs built by the Ottomans. Büyük Bent, the "Great Dam", is the most photogenic.
2. Historic aqueducts
First the Byzantines and later the Ottomans built an elaborate network of aqueducts and dams (bent in Turkish) in this forest to keep Constantinople, and then Istanbul, supplied with water. Several of the aqueducts survive in excellent condition among the trees, and coming across one on a quiet path is quite magical.
3. Picnics and barbecues
There are designated picnic and barbecue areas with tables, benches and grills. At weekends Istanbul families gather here to grill meat and drink çay (tea) under the trees. It's a very local experience that few foreign visitors know about. In the hot, dry summer months the authorities can restrict fires in forest areas because of the wildfire risk, so check before you plan a barbecue.
4. Birdwatching
The forest is home to more than 100 species of birds, including woodpeckers, falcons and owls. Spring (April–May) is the best time to see them.
How to get there
From Taksim or Levent it's about 30–40 minutes by car. Public transport doesn't reach the heart of the forest (buses go as far as Bahçeköy, on its edge), so the easiest options are a taxi, a private car or an organised tour such as my nature day tour, which pairs a guided walk in the forest with the fishing village of Anadolu Kavağı on the Upper Bosphorus. There's parking at the main entrances.
Tips
- The best times to visit are spring (April–May), for the flowers and mild temperatures, and autumn (October–November), for the golden colours.
- Wear walking shoes: the ground can be damp and slippery.
- Don't count on buying food along the trails: bring your own food and water.
- At the time of writing (2026), entry is free or cheap: cars pay a small fee at the main gates, and some entrances and managed picnic areas, such as Neşet Suyu, may also charge walkers a small fee.
- Avoid Sundays if you want peace and quiet: it's the favourite day out for Istanbul families.