The Ihlara Valley is a canyon 14 kilometres long, carved by the Melendiz River into the volcanic tuff, with walls around 100 metres high and poplars, willows and small orchards along the bottom. This is green Cappadocia, with shade and water in a region of dry rock, and around ten painted Byzantine churches you can visit, hidden in its walls.
It lies about an hour south-west of Göreme and is the heart of the classic Green Tour that most agencies in the region run, together with an underground city and Selime Monastery. For many of the travellers I guide, the hour-and-a-half walk beside the river is their favourite memory of Cappadocia.
A little history
From the early Byzantine centuries, the canyon was a refuge for monks and farmers: it was hidden, it had water, and its walls were easy to carve. More than a hundred churches are known, of which about ten can be visited, with paintings ranging from the 6th to the 11th century. The oldest are in an Eastern style, influenced by Syria and Egypt, quite different from the churches of Göreme, which looked to Constantinople.
The villages of the canyon, Ihlara, Belisırma and Selime, went on using the caves as storerooms and stables until a few decades ago. At Selime, at the far end of the canyon, a monastery was carved into an entire hill, with a rock-cut church the size of a cathedral.
What to see in the Ihlara Valley
The steps down
The main entrance is up on the rim, next to a viewpoint, and about 350 steps lead down to the valley floor. This is the moment for the views: the whole canyon, the river and the green ribbon of trees.
The Church Under the Tree (Ağaçaltı)
At the foot of the steps, with an Ascension in the dome and strong colours, ochres and reds. It's the most visited church and the best introduction to the style of the valley.
The Snake Church (Yılanlı)
A little further on, with a Last Judgement in which sinful women are punished by snakes, and the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste. The paintings are damaged, but you can still make them out clearly.
The riverside trail
From the steps to Belisırma it's about four flat kilometres, crossing the river on wooden bridges, among poplars, with frogs, birds and the odd shepherd. Signposted churches open off the path on either side, among them the Hyacinth Church (Sümbüllü) and St George's (Kırkdamaltı), which is reached by a steep flight of steps.
Belisırma and its riverside restaurants
This is the village in the middle of the canyon, where we finish the walk: wooden platforms with cushions right over the river, grilled trout, gözleme (thin stuffed flatbread) and ayran (a salty yoghurt drink). It's the classic Green Tour lunch stop.
Selime
At the end of the canyon stands Selime Monastery, a whole hill hollowed out into a church, kitchens, stables and stairways that climb through the rock. It's a separate visit of about half an hour, and well worth the climb.
Tips for your visit
Allow an hour and a half for the stretch to Belisırma, and most of a day for the whole canyon. The way down is all steps; the rest is flat, on dirt paths.
- Wear closed shoes and bring water: the shade of the trees helps, but it's still hot in summer.
- The churches have no artificial lighting, so a small torch helps you see the frescoes.
- It works very well with children: the river, the bridges, the frogs. A pushchair is out of the question because of the steps.
- In spring the river runs high, and some stretches can be muddy.
Tickets and prices
At the time of writing (2026), a ticket costs €16 for foreign visitors under the official 2027 tariff, and it's valid at every entrance to the canyon. Selime Monastery has its own ticket. On my tours, the ticket is either included or taken care of by your guide.
Where it is and how to get there
The valley is in Aksaray province, about 80 kilometres from Göreme: a little over an hour by car via Nevşehir and Derinkuyu. Without your own car, you'll need a tour, as there's no practical public transport.
How we visit it on my tours
Ihlara is the centrepiece of the southern day of Cappadocia Adventure: the canyon walk and lunch by the river, then Derinkuyu Underground City and a stop at the Selime viewpoint. My one-day tour of the south, the Kaymaklı and Soğanlı day tour, goes to Soğanlı instead, a quieter green canyon with rock-cut churches of its own. To see how Ihlara fits in with the other valleys, read my complete Cappadocia travel guide.
If you'd like to spend a day in the canyon with a guide, tell me on the tailor-made trip page.