Kars
The ruins of Ani, Russian architecture and the snowy landscapes of eastern Türkiye.
About Kars
Kars is the gateway to Türkiye's most remote and fascinating east, a city that transports you to another world. Its townscape, with buildings of black basalt showing a clear Russian-Baltic influence inherited from the Russian occupation (1878–1920), gives it a unique look, closer to a Caucasian city than a Turkish one. Orhan Pamuk immortalised its wintry atmosphere in his novel 'Snow'.
42 km from Kars lie the ruins of Ani, the ancient capital of the Armenian kingdom and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With 200,000 inhabitants at its peak in the 11th century, Ani was known as the 'City of 1,001 Churches'. Today its churches, walls and mosques rise dramatically above a gorge that marks the border with Armenia, creating one of the most impressive archaeological landscapes in the world.
In winter, Kars turns into a fairy-tale landscape: Lake Çıldır freezes over completely and you can cross it by horse-drawn sleigh, go ice fishing and gaze at endless white under deep blue skies. Kars cheese (kaşar), aged for months in caves, is one of the finest food products in Türkiye.
What to See in Kars
Ruins of Ani
The ancient capital of the Armenian kingdom and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruined churches, walls, mosques and palaces spread across a dramatic plateau beside the gorge that marks the border with Armenia. The Cathedral of Ani (AD 1001), the Church of the Redeemer and the Manuchihr Mosque are the most impressive.
Read more about Ruins of AniKars Castle
A 12th-century fortress dominating the city from above, rebuilt by the Ottomans and later used by the Russians. From the top you get a complete panorama of Kars and its mountains. At the foot of the castle, the Church of the Apostles (Havariler Kilisesi) is one of the oldest buildings in the city.
Lake Çıldır
One of the largest lakes in eastern Türkiye, at 1,959 metres above sea level. In winter it freezes over completely (December–March), and you can cross it by horse-drawn sleigh, go ice fishing and wander across its endless white surface. In summer it's just as beautiful, surrounded by green meadows with nomads and their flocks.
Russian-Ottoman Architecture
The streets of Kars are dotted with black-stone buildings with wrought-iron balconies, theatres and mansions from the Russian period (1878–1920). The contrast with Turkish architecture is striking and gives Kars a unique character. The Yusufpaşa neighbourhood is the most atmospheric.
Must-See Places
Food in Kars
Food in Kars revolves around dairy and meat. Kars kaşar peyniri (kaşar cheese), aged for months, is famous throughout Türkiye and is eaten with honey at breakfast. Çeçil peyniri (string cheese) and Kars gruyère are also excellent.
Kaz eti (goose), the star of a Kars winter, is roasted or smoked and served with pirinç pilavı (rice). Tiria soup (made with wild herbs), hangel (home-made stuffed pasta) and piti (a stew in a clay pot) are classics of the local cooking.
Kars honey, made by Caucasian bees feeding on wild mountain flowers, is another of the region's culinary treasures.
Practical Tips
- For Ani, hire a guide to explain the history: without context, the ruins are impressive but can be hard to make sense of.
- If you visit in winter (December–February), be prepared for temperatures of -20°C or lower. The frozen Lake Çıldır makes up for it.
- Summer (June–August) is the best time to visit Ani, with good weather and long days.
- Kaşar cheese is best bought in the local markets rather than in tourist shops. Ask to taste before you buy.
- Orhan Pamuk's novel 'Snow' is the perfect read before your trip: it is set in Kars in winter.
Getting There
Kars has an airport (KSY) with daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara (2 hours). The famous Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express), Türkiye's most iconic train, links Ankara with Kars in 24 hours through spectacular scenery: a journey in itself that has gone viral on social media.
There are also buses from Erzurum (3 hours by car) and Trabzon (6 hours). The ruins of Ani are 42 km from Kars along an easy road, but the last stretch is rural, so it's best to go by private car or on an organised tour.
Frequently Asked Questions about Kars
How many days do I need to visit Kars?
I recommend spending at least 2 days in Kars so you can see the main sights at a relaxed pace. If you have more time, you can combine it with nearby destinations to make the most of your trip.
When is the best time to visit Kars?
The best time to visit Kars is May to September (summer), January to February (winter). That said, every season has its charm, and Türkiye is a destination you can enjoy all year round.
Can I visit Kars with an English-speaking guide?
Yes. As a licensed, English-speaking tour guide in Türkiye, I organise private tours and day tours in Kars. Every itinerary can be tailored to your interests.
How do I get to Kars from Istanbul?
Depending on the destination, you can get there by domestic flight (1–1.5 h), by coach or by private car. On the tours I organise, transport is included and planned to make the most of your sightseeing time.
Can I include Kars in a longer tour of Türkiye?
Of course. Kars combines easily with other destinations in Türkiye. I design tailor-made itineraries of 7, 10, 12 or 15 days that include this and other fascinating places.
Want to visit Kars with a licensed, English-speaking guide? Book your private guide in Türkiye and we'll plan the itinerary together.
Read More about Kars
Guides, tips and stories to help you plan your visit.
Ani, Kars: The City of a Thousand Churches on the Armenian Border
An abandoned medieval capital on a plateau above the river that now marks the Armenian border: a cathedral, frescoed chu
Kars and Ani: The Ghost City of a Thousand Churches
On the border with Armenia, the ruins of Ani, a medieval capital once home to some 100,000 people, stand alone on the st
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