Ankara
Türkiye's capital: Anıtkabir, the world's finest Hittite museum and the Ottoman citadel.
About Ankara
Ankara has been the capital of Türkiye since 1923 and is the country's second most populous city, yet it remains largely unknown to travellers who only have eyes for Istanbul. Those who stop here discover something no other Turkish city offers: the key to understanding modern Türkiye and, at the same time, the finest museum of Anatolian civilisations there is.
Its symbolic centre is Anıtkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Republic. It is not just a tomb: it's a monumental limestone complex on a hilltop, with the Road of Lions, a ceremonial square for 15,000 people and a museum telling the story of the War of Independence. The changing of the guard and the silence of the Turks who visit explain, without words, what Atatürk means to this country.
The other must-see is the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, housed in a 15th-century Ottoman bedesten and named European Museum of the Year. Its galleries cover 10,000 unbroken years of history (Palaeolithic, Çatalhöyük, Hittites, Phrygians, Urartians, Romans) with the finest Hittite collection on the planet. It's the visit that gives meaning to all the ruins you'll see later in your trip.
Around the citadel (Ankara Kalesi), the old town preserves wooden Ottoman houses, coppersmiths' workshops and the restored Hamamönü quarter, with courtyard cafés and cobbled streets. From the castle walls, the view of the city at sunset is one of the finest in Central Anatolia.
What to See in Ankara
Anıtkabir, Atatürk's Mausoleum
The most visited monument in Türkiye and the symbolic heart of the Republic. You approach along the Road of Lions, lined with 24 Hittite-style lion statues, to a monumental ceremonial square. The underground museum recreates the War of Independence with life-size dioramas and holds Atatürk's personal belongings, library and official cars. Entry is free and the guard changes every hour.
Read more about Anıtkabir, Atatürk's MausoleumMuseum of Anatolian Civilisations
A European Museum of the Year, housed in a restored 15th-century Ottoman bedesten. It covers 10,000 years of Anatolia in chronological order: the Palaeolithic of Karain Cave, Neolithic Çatalhöyük with the oldest known town plan, the idols of Hacılar and, above all, the world's finest Hittite collection: reliefs from Yazılıkaya, sphinxes from Alacahöyük and the tablets of the Treaty of Kadesh.
Read more about Museum of Anatolian CivilisationsAnkara Citadel (Ankara Kalesi)
A fortress with Galatian and Roman foundations and 7th-century Byzantine walls built with stones reused from Roman buildings: you can spot columns and capitals set into the masonry. Inside survives a village of inhabited wooden Ottoman houses, with coppersmiths' workshops and spice shops. The outer tower offers a panoramic view over the whole city.
Hamamönü Quarter
A lovingly restored Ottoman quarter: cobbled streets, painted wooden houses, courtyard cafés, craft workshops and the house museum of the poet Mehmet Âkif Ersoy, author of the national anthem. It's the best place in Ankara to sip a Turkish tea and watch local life at a leisurely pace.
Kocatepe Mosque
Ankara's largest mosque and one of the biggest in Türkiye, completed in 1987 in classical neo-Ottoman style: four 88-metre minarets and a central dome inspired by Sinan's architecture. Its interior of marble and stained glass is impressive for its sheer scale. Entry is free; dress respectfully.
Temple of Augustus and Hacı Bayram Mosque
One of the most remarkable ensembles in Türkiye: the walls of the Roman Temple of Augustus and Rome (1st century BC) stand right against a 15th-century mosque. Its walls preserve the Monumentum Ancyranum, the most complete surviving copy of Augustus's political testament, inscribed in Latin and Greek.
War of Independence Museum
The building of the first parliament of the Grand National Assembly, where the resistance was proclaimed in 1920. The original chamber survives with its wooden desks and the stove that heated the sessions. It's the visit that explains how the Republic was born in a modest room in Ankara rather than in an Istanbul palace.
Must-See Places
Food in Ankara
Ankara's food is that of Central Anatolia: hearty, oven-baked and built around lamb. The flagship dish is Ankara tava, rice with lamb and vegetables baked in a tray. Also very typical are Ankara döner, served with rice and roasted pepper, and etli ekmek, a long flatbread with minced meat.
In Hamamönü and around the citadel, cafés serve full Turkish breakfasts (serpme kahvaltı) with regional produce. The local drink in winter is boza, and you shouldn't leave without trying kabak tatlısı (candied pumpkin with walnuts and tahini) or the specialities of Beypazarı: its kuru biscuits and mineral water are famous throughout the country.
Practical Tips
- Ankara can be seen very well in one full day: Anıtkabir in the morning (it opens at 09:00) and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations plus the citadel in the afternoon.
- Anıtkabir is free, but there's an airport-style security check: best to travel light.
- The Museum of Anatolian Civilisations closes on Mondays in the low season: confirm the day before you plan your visit.
- It's a natural stop between Istanbul and Cappadocia by road, and the high-speed train links it with Istanbul in about 4 hours and with Konya in 1 h 45 min.
- The city lies at 900 m: in winter it's much colder than on the coast, and in summer the nights are cool.
Getting There
Ankara is in the heart of Anatolia, about 450 km from Istanbul. The most comfortable option is the YHT high-speed train from Söğütlüçeşme or Pendik stations (Istanbul) to Ankara Gar, in about 4 hours, with frequent departures.
By air, Esenboğa Airport (ESB) is 30 km from the centre and has flights from all over the country, plus some international connections; from Istanbul the flight takes an hour. By road, the O-4 motorway lets you make the journey in about 4.5 hours.
On the private tours I organise, Ankara fits perfectly as a stop between Istanbul and Cappadocia: you arrive mid-morning, visit Anıtkabir and the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations with your guide, have lunch in the city and continue to Cappadocia in the afternoon, or stay the night to see it at a relaxed pace.
Frequently Asked Questions about Ankara
How many days do I need to visit Ankara?
I recommend spending at least 1 day in Ankara so you can see the main sights at a relaxed pace. If you have more time, you can combine it with nearby destinations to make the most of your trip.
When is the best time to visit Ankara?
The best time to visit Ankara is April to June, September to October. That said, every season has its charm, and Türkiye is a destination you can enjoy all year round.
Can I visit Ankara with an English-speaking guide?
Yes. As a licensed, English-speaking tour guide in Türkiye, I organise private tours and day tours in Ankara. Every itinerary can be tailored to your interests.
How do I get to Ankara from Istanbul?
Depending on the destination, you can get there by domestic flight (1–1.5 h), by coach or by private car. On the tours I organise, transport is included and planned to make the most of your sightseeing time.
Can I include Ankara in a longer tour of Türkiye?
Of course. Ankara combines easily with other destinations in Türkiye. I design tailor-made itineraries of 7, 10, 12 or 15 days that include this and other fascinating places.
Want to visit Ankara with a licensed, English-speaking guide? Book your private guide in Türkiye and we'll plan the itinerary together.
Read More about Ankara
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