The roof of the south-east
Hakkari is wedged between Iran and Iraq in the far south-east, and it is the most mountainous province in the country: the Cilo range rises to 4,135 metres and still holds permanent glaciers, something you find in only a handful of places in Türkiye, Mount Ararat and the Kaçkar range among them. For decades it was out of reach; today it draws trekkers, and travellers curious to see the Türkiye that isn't in any guidebook.
What to see
The Cilo and Sat mountains
Glacial valleys, high-altitude lakes such as the Sat lakes and Lake Gelyano, summer pastures dotted with the tents of nomadic herders, and peaks that look straight out of the Alps. You explore them on treks of two to five days, between July and September, with a guide and pack mules.
The Nestorian heritage
Until 1915 these mountains were the refuge of the Assyrian Christians of the Church of the East, the "Nestorians" of old travel books, with a church in every valley. What survives are the ruins of monasteries and of the cathedral of Kochanis (Qudshanis), seat of their patriarch, on a spur above the valley of the Great Zab. It is a little-known chapter of history.
Hakkari town
The Meydan Madrasa, built around 1700, with its carved portal, and the castle above the town. Hakkari is small, but it has a bazaar, and on every corner there is a glass of tea and a conversation that starts all by itself.
Hoşap Castle
On the road from Van stands this 17th-century Kurdish castle, with lions carved over its gateway and walls rising above the Hoşap river: the most photogenic castle in the whole region.
When to go
For the mountains, only from June to September; the rest of the year, snow closes the passes. In July the high pastures are green and the nomads have moved up with their flocks.
How to get there
From Van it is three to four hours by mountain road. Hakkari's own airport, at Yüksekova, has had flights from Ankara and Istanbul, but routes change from season to season, so Van Airport is usually the more practical gateway. For the mountains you must go with a local guide: parts of the area have been restricted zones, and access has to be checked each season.
What to eat
Shepherds' cooking: chargrilled lamb, herb cheese, doğaba (a hearty soup of yoghurt and wheat), mountain honey and bread baked on hot stone.
How to fit it in
A three- or four-day trip from Van for anyone looking for real mountains, or the finale of the great eastern route: Kars, Doğubayazıt, Van and Hakkari.