Edirne, the second capital of the Ottoman Empire, is one of the most rewarding day trips from Istanbul, and one that few visitors know about. Around 2.5 hours away by motorway, this city on the border with Greece and Bulgaria is home to what many consider the most perfect mosque in the world.
What to see in Edirne
1. The Selimiye Mosque: Mimar Sinan's masterpiece
The Selimiye Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the main reason to visit Edirne. It was built between 1568 and 1575 for Sultan Selim II by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan, then around 80 years old, who considered it his finest work.
Its dome, 31.5 metres in diameter, is said to be slightly wider than that of Hagia Sophia. It rests on eight piers, creating an interior of breathtaking spaciousness, and its many windows (999 of them, according to tradition) flood the prayer hall with natural light for an almost mystical effect.
2. The Complex of Bayezid II and the Museum of Health
This 15th-century complex includes a hospital where psychiatric patients were treated with music therapy, the sound of running water and aromatherapy, a revolutionary approach for its time. Today it is a fascinating museum on the history of Ottoman medicine.
3. The street of liver restaurants (Ciğerciler Caddesi)
Edirne is famous for ciğer tava: calf's liver cut into thin slices, fried until crisp and served with hot peppers. There is a whole street of restaurants devoted to this one dish, and you won't find it made quite like this anywhere else in Türkiye. For more of the country's classics, see my list of 20 Turkish dishes you have to try.
4. The historic bazaars
The 15th-century Bedesten (covered market) and the Arasta Bazaar beside the Selimiye Mosque are Ottoman markets where you can buy Edirne's famous handmade soaps, Thracian white cheese and rose oil. They are much quieter, and feel more authentic, than the bazaars of Istanbul.
5. The Meriç Bridge at sunset
If time allows, end your visit at the Ottoman stone bridge over the Meriç (Maritsa) river. At sunset, with the river below and the minarets of the Selimiye on the skyline behind, the view is unforgettable.
How to get to Edirne from Istanbul
By car or private transport, Edirne is about 2.5 hours from Istanbul on the O-3 motorway. There are also frequent buses from Istanbul's main bus station (the Otogar, in Esenler/Bayrampaşa), taking 3–3.5 hours; several companies run departures throughout the day, so check the current timetables before you travel.
If you would rather not deal with buses, I can build Edirne into a tailor-made trip, with private transport and an English-speaking guide.
Practical tips
- Edirne is easy to see in one long day: set off early and head back to Istanbul in the evening.
- It combines well with Gallipoli and Troy on a 2–3-day tour of Thrace and the Dardanelles.
- Every summer, usually in early July, Edirne hosts the Kırkpınar Festival, the world's oldest oil-wrestling tournament (held since 1362). It is an impressive spectacle.
- The Selimiye is a working mosque: dress modestly and avoid prayer times.
- Edirne's handmade soaps and Thracian white cheese make the best souvenirs.